The bed leveling is damaging my bed

[abrahamfa]

I'm using my Kobra Neo with Klipper.

I'm having issues with the mesh. I never get good results.

To be honest, I don't know what information from my code to provide. I'm using KAMP for the mesh. I have the x and y offsets activated and the zstop, along with the z offset, well configured. The results I'm getting are as follows:

I don't know where else to look. My bed is clean; I've lubricated all the printer's wheels. I've adjusted the ABL to the height recommended by Anycubic, and I create the mesh with a low tolerance. I'm not sure if I'm missing something.

[NuclearPhoenixx]

Are you sure the z-offset is set correctly? Also your bed looks like it's crazy warped honestly. My first guess would be that that's at least a big part of the problem. Are you still using the rigid stock spacers or something else?

No idea about Klipper and KAMP yet, so maybe there is some problem there too. I'm sure @1coderookie can answer that.

[abrahamfa]

I would say that the Z offset, I think, should not be a problem. The lines don't adhere well in some places, and in other areas, they adhere too much. This seems to be a mesh issue at first glance. KAMP only does a bed to a custom range and saves time.

I also don't think it's bed warping. There are differences of 0.2 mm in the image I posted. I've had differences of over 2 mm before and managed to solve it. I don't have rubber spacers currently.

When the extruder passes through the areas where it doesn't adhere, I see the Z-axis move, and I suspect it's a configuration issue with the bed or something related to the X and Y offsets.

All of this is my understanding, but I might be mistaken about something.

[abrahamfa]

I just uninstalled Klipper and reverted to the original firmware. I thought of simplifying the configuration issues and checking if there could be something wrong with my printer during disassembly and reassembly. Indeed, there seems to be an issue with the hardware of my printer.

Right now, I won't know what it could be. I imagine that the X-axis might be incorrectly assembled. When I reassembled it, the belts were already somewhat tight, and I assume there's a problem there.

I'll thoroughly check the info site, but if you can shed some light on it, I would greatly appreciate it.

[1coderookie]

Looking at the second picture with the skirt around the plate, the right side of the bed is too low / the nozzle too high. This can be caused if the x-gantry isn't perfectly trammed, the Y-brackets are crooked so that only one of the outer wheels properly touch the rail and then the inner wheel has been positioned too tight (trying to compensate the misaligned Y-bracket). Then the gantry moves up and when it moves down it lags and can stay too high. So that would be the very first thing. Therefore give this a good reading and follow the steps in that violet expandable textbox there: https://1coderookie.github.io/KobraGoNeoInsights/hardware/axes/#tramming-the-x-axis-gantry
Take your time and be as precise as you can, this one really is crucial!

Do you have the rigid stock spacers or did you put in springs or silicone spacers?

Next would be to use Klipper regularly, without KAMPS, and do a mesh (don't forget to save it!). Make sure you load the mesh before an actual print job.
I personally don't really see the huge advantage of KAMPS anyway, cuz if you don't take off the PEI plate after a print (just wait and let everything cool down, then the model pops right off), the whole thing doesn't really change. At least I personally never had issues with that.
Once you've done that, print the above shown skirt again or print this one with a skirt around it: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5174552
Then please post a pic of that print as well as a pic of your bedmesh again.

Besides that, just as a note to your meshview shown above: take off the PEI plate and check that one. Is it slightly curved?
If so, how was it placed on the bed - was it laying on your bed with the curve going upwards at the sides?

[abrahamfa]

The documentation is so extensive that I had missed this information. I love it, by the way. A tremendous effort.

For now, I'm going to start looking for some green bean cans to fine-tune this. This is my first printer, and it's second-hand. It comes mostly stock, and I'm tinkering with it.

I uninstalled Klipper for now to achieve a good first layer with the stock firmware. Yesterday, I downloaded the same STL you recommend to test this first layer.

Thank you so much! This afternoon, I'll try to adjust the printer, and I'll keep you informed.

[1coderookie]

Yes, I know, it's quite a lot to read.. :(
Thanks for your kind words :) ..I'd appreciate if you'd starr the repo then if you like it btw ;)

You don't have to use bean cans, just make sure to use two objects of exactly the same height.
Especially as it's second hand, go thru the steps being mentioned in the Calibration chapter. Start with a complete check of the frame itself - don't trust any preassembled parts! Most likely something is out of alignment, and then it's a PITA to find the reason for any weird behaviour. So take your time and check and tram everything. This will take a while and you have to take stuff apart, yes, but its really worth the hassle.

As for the stock fw: I'd suggest to not use that one to check if everything is fine. That has it's own issues, like wrong settings about the probe's location and a Z-offset which will be forgotten somehow.
So as you already used Klipper, go back using that one. Klipper is much more reliable.

Btw: which printer.cfg did you use? Mine for the Neo from my repo?

And btw2: are you the same guy who send me a dm via reddit about this issue? If so, using springs (you didn't answer my question above if you're using the rigid spacers or adjustable ones) doesn't solve your problems, it can actually make things worse and more complicated. So I'd also suggest to check the rigid stock spacers (if you have them) for being the same height as mentioned as one of the topics about calibrating the printer and then use those one for now. Then you can tram the x-gantry in relation to the bed - might be easier than tramming it in relation to the frame itslef (what you'd have to do when using adjustable spacers) and then tram the bed in relation to the head..

[NuclearPhoenixx]

That has it's own issues, like wrong settings about the probe's location and a Z-offset which will be forgotten somehow.

I never once had this problem so far. Not sure what you did for this to happen. Only if I update the FW or do an ABL it resets the Z-Offset. But that's totally okay. For the probe offset he can just use one of the countless modded FWs.

Maybe it's easier to try with the stock FW at first, just so that you don't have to possibly debug multiple problems at the same time. If he's using stock or one of the mods, it'll print fine and he can be sure it's not the software causing weird issues. After that he can install Klipper again and double check everything with the configs there. At least that's how I'd do it and I think he had the same idea.

[1coderookie]

Well, I personally didn't do anything to make it happen, it just happened. Many users have/had same issues..

Sure, he can do whatever he feels to do is the best ;)

[abrahamfa]

I've used your config file named NEO_1coderookie_printer.cfg. I don't think I changed much except for the speeds of PROVE and BED_MESH, as with KAMP, it was quite slow to print and perform checks.

Regarding the spacers, they're the same as the factory ones. The printer only has one mod, which is the change of the fan vent. I noticed that one of them measured 0.1 mm more than the rest, and I corrected this.

Yesterday, I posted on Reddit, but I didn't reach out to you directly. I made a post in the Klipper community, thinking it was a configuration issue.

I believe I've sorted out my X-axis quite a bit. The advice has been really helpful. I've achieved good bed leveling except in some specific points:

I still have areas where the offset is dropping a bit, but much less severe than the occasions I showed earlier. I'll continue experimenting these days, but I think I'm on the right track. I'll check if the Z-bar is straight and grease it in the coming days, as it's the only thing I haven't reviewed correctly.

While I'm on this post, I wanted to ask you a couple more questions:

1. In your guide, do you have instructions on how to level the extrusion screw? It confuses me a bit to have this screw and at the same time, have to find a good flow level.

2. From all the mods in your guide, which one would you recommend starting with, or do you consider essential to begin with?
   

Thank you very much for everything!

[NuclearPhoenixx]

In your guide, do you have instructions on how to level the extrusion screw? It confuses me a bit to have this screw and at the same time, have to find a good flow level.

Basically, you want the gear tension to be only as high as necessary as to not deform the filament, but on the other hand it should never be too loose as to slip. You can set it pretty easily by following these steps:

1. Loosen the screw so that tension is as low as possible
2. Now use the Prepare>Load Filament function from the menu (in Marlin, equivalent in Klipper)
3. When the extruder gear turns, put in your filament. It shouldn't move into the extruder, because tension is too low
4. Now gradually increase the tension until the gear catches the filament and is able to move it

It's from this guide: https://3dprinterly.com/extruder-tension-guide-for-3d-printing/

Personally, I adjusted the gear tension a little bit higher by slightly pulling on the filament while feeding and adjusting until it didn't slip anymore. That way it's a little bit more robust if you for some reason introduce more friction into the system, but it's still far away from deforming the filament itself. Don't forget to do all your flow and e-steps calibration after that.