Z-Axis mods

[SteveBz]

I've done both the mods you mention to the z-axis, both the stabiliser and the second z-axis. I Still need to retichten the off-centre wheels! Here's some photos:

[1coderookie]

Looks good, but I personally would throw out the bearing blocks at the top as I described at the page and tried to explain why to avoid using them.
Did you just use a y-cable w/o adjust the current for the z-axis stepper driver?

[SteveBz]

There is a perfect little screw hole near the motherboard for an M3 screw to fit this stepper splitter board. Then I spliced (soldered) 2 of the extenders together because one isn't quite long enough. Then The Vref for mine was about 0,82v, but others have found .71v, so I guess .7-.8v. I upped the Vref potentiometer to 1.16v and it works beautifully.

[SteveBz]

Here's the one I did, with my comments:

https://www.printables.com/model/364889-anycubic-kobra-neogo-dual-z-mod

[1coderookie]

Ah ok, you used that kind of splitter - great solution mounting it next to the mainboard! If you ever access the mb in the future, could you maybe take a picture of the assembled setup and put it in here as well? I'll link to this discussion in that section of the page, so people can see it actually.
Thanks!

[SteveBz]

Here the original Z-axis cable with black filaments is folded back to the splitter board

Here the new multicolour cable goes from the Z-axis driver to the single 'in' port of the splitter board, I've had to extend it because 1 cable wasn't long enough (it's soldered under the insulation tape!!)

Here is the whole setup. Again the stepper cable had the wrong plug and had to be soldered. Luckily I bought a pack of 5 board with 5 cables, so It didn't matter that I cannibalised a few. NB The second motor was anti-parallel to the original, so I switched the left-hand two filaments when soldering. That fixed it. (Left-had two or right-hand two, doesn't matter, just not the middle two).

[1coderookie]

Thanks!