ergo-dash-v1.2.md

omkbd's ErgoDash Keyboard [No leds] (ErgoDash v1.2)

Check the final product
Check the video of this build
Check the original buildlog

Check List:

• Sort the parts
• Ordering the PCB
• Firmware
• Prepare the PCB
• Solder diodes
• Solder bottom components
• Jumper Pads
• Install Stabilizer
• Install Top-Plate
• Solder Switches
• Solder pro-micro
• Install Bottom-Plate

Part list (Original)

• 1x ErgoDash PCBs Printed mine on jlcpcb
• 1x ErgoDash Case Laser cut mine on Brazil
• 70x Keycaps - 1u x 68, 2u x 2
• 2x Pro Micro ATmega32U4 5V/16MHz Module controller Mega32U4 Mini leonardo for Arduino with the bootloader
• 70x Thru-hole diodes IN4148 DO-35
• 2x Momentary Tactile Switch 3X6X4.3 with stand
• 2x PJ320D 3.5MM Headphone TRRS Jack Socket Female Connector
• 1x 1m 4 pole Stero audio cable Car AUX MP3/MP4 3.5mm male to male
• 70x Holy Pandas switches
• 2x Stabilizers 2u PCB Stab
• 22x M2×5mm Screws
• 6x M2×8mm Screws
• 14x M2×6mm Spacers

Ordering the PCB

I pretty much uploaded the latest cherry gerber file avalilable on omkbd's repository in https://jlcpcb.com and let all default settings, just changed the color to black.
Later I receiced an email complaing about some fragilities the holes could cause, I asked then to just proceed because I wasn't planning to use that part of the thumb clusters, I opened an issue about this problem, but after asking then to continue the production, everything was ok.

Firmware

You can follow pretty much what I did for the corne keyboard here
Just change the command for the Compile/Flash the part with this one:

make ergodash/rev1:default:flash

Building

Prepare the PCB

Removed the thumbclusters with my own hands carefully

I used POSCA for painting the pcb sides

Solder diodes

The black stripe goes towards the square hole It took me longer to bend the diodes than soldering them There is some differences in diodes positions on each side and always check if you are inserting a diode in a diode hole and not a resistor hole I forgot to add a diode in the picture above can you spot it? Fortunately I double checked after I soldered them

Solder bottom components

TRRS Jack, the reset button, and pro-micro pins are pretty straight forward to install Don't solder the pro-micro at this step, only after you soldered all the switches, solder only the legs If your arduinos came with big pins like mine, you will need to trim them later to fit in the case

Jumper Pads

This can be trick, I read after about using a diode leg to help in this part, I did without it, was quite messy

Install Stabilizer

Stabilizers looks complicated to mount, but after watching some videos in youtube it was easy step

Install Top-Plate

You need to install the top plate in order to start soldering the switches, mind that this step will block the access to half of the board, double check if you soldered all diodes and components before starting this one. I start by soldering only the switches in the corners to ensure alignment

Solder Switches

Soldering the switches was the most satisfying part of this build

Solder pro-micro

Only solder the pro-micro AFTER you soldered the switches, because you will need access the space it occupy to solder two switches
Is good to put an isolation tape in between the pcb and the pro-micro

Install Bottom-Plate

Screw the spacers in the top plate first and then move to the bottom

Finished