Fixed typos - thanks to @IguanaBob

docs/hardware/mainboard.md

@@ -4,7 +4,7 @@
 
 ## TriGorilla V_3.0.6 (Stock) 
 
-The stock mainboard of both the **Go** and the **Neo** is the "TriGorilla V_3.0.6" - it's the same board, it's just flashed with the respective fimware of either model.  
+The stock mainboard of both the **Go** and the **Neo** is the "TriGorilla V_3.0.6" - it's the same board, it's just flashed with the respective firmware of either model.  
 
 ??? info "TriGorilla V_3.0.7 Has Been Spotted"  
 
@@ -19,7 +19,7 @@ The mainboard comes with TMC2208 silent stepper drivers *soldered* onto the boar
 ??? info "GC6609 stepper drivers being used as well!"  
 
     It seems that Anycubic changed the stepper drivers from original TMC2208 to cheap 2208/2209 clones, called "GC6609".  
-    When exactly this change took place and whether it's a permanent solution or if only a certain batch of these mainboards have been populated with these kind of stepper drivers is unknown. It seems though that the mainboards which are equipped with these drivers are set up with silver heatsinkns instead of black heatsinks.    
+    When exactly this change took place and whether it's a permanent solution or if only a certain batch of these mainboards have been populated with these kind of stepper drivers is unknown. It seems though that the mainboards which are equipped with these drivers are set up with silver heatsinks instead of black heatsinks.    
     However, the following picture shows this stepper driver (you'd have to take off the heatsink to identify which specific type was being used at your mainboard - which I wouldn't recommend to do if you're just curious to know which one you have..).    
 
     ![GC6609](../assets/images/board_GC6609-stepperdrivers_web.jpeg)  
@@ -47,15 +47,15 @@ The microSD card reader slot and the USB-C connector can be accessed from at fro
 
     When you are screwing down the soldered tip inside the clamp, the solder will get cracked a bit and may get deformed a bit as well. When the wire gets warm due to the current and the solder gets softer, the contact may become loose which could lead to malfunction or even cause fire in the last consequence. So it's always a good idea to just use proper ferrules. <br> ![Ferrules instead of soldered tips](../assets/images/mainboard_ferrules_web.jpg)  
 
-!!! danger "Avoid Shortcuts!"  
+!!! danger "Avoid Short Circuits!"  
 
-    *Shortcuts coming from the cartridge heater for example can/will damage your mainboard, so be careful to never cause a shortcut somehow!*  
+    *Short circuits coming from the cartridge heater for example can/will damage your mainboard, so be careful to never cause a short circuit somehow!*  
 
     A common misbehaviour is to clean the nozzle with a little brass brush during the print process or while everything is heating up.  
     Also grabbing the heater block to e.g. change the nozzle while everything is heating up and electrical current is flowing is another common mistake.  
-    When using pliers to hold the heater block, the tips of the pliers may touch the contacts of the wires at the cartridge heater and you cause a shortcut. As a result you can/will get blown up part at the mainboard, like the melted part "D4" for example as shown in the picture below. <br> ![Melted D4 caused by a shortcut](../assets/images/mainboard_melted-D4_web.jpg)  
+    When using pliers to hold the heater block, the tips of the pliers may touch the contacts of the wires at the cartridge heater and you cause a short circuit. As a result you can/will get blown up part at the mainboard, like the melted part "D4" for example as shown in the picture below. <br> ![Melted D4 caused by a short circuit](../assets/images/mainboard_melted-D4_web.jpg)  
 
-    *So always turn off the whole printer first to avoid a shortcut which will destroy your mainboard!*
+    *So always turn off the whole printer first to avoid a short circuit which will destroy your mainboard!*
 
 !!! warning "Use A USB Power Blocker"  
 
@@ -122,10 +122,10 @@ Reddit user [Jurai_Probs](https://www.reddit.com/user/Jurai_Props/) uses a BTT M
 
 ## MOD: Add An External MOSFET  
 
-It's advisable to add an external MOSFET for driving the heated bed (if you like, you can also add one for the heater cartridge as well of course). Even though the MOSFET on the mainboard is sufficient, it's an upgrade worth doing as it not only leads to the fact that the bed will be heated up slightly faster, but it also increases the security of the hole printer.  
-The MOSFET of the mainboard doesn't have a heatsink and it *may* caused by overheating due to an excessive amount of current being drawn, especially when using higher bed temperatures. Due to the low clearance between the fan of the moainboard and the ground the printer stands on, the cooling isn't the best as well. When using an enclosure which then heats up as well, cooling gets even worse.  
+It's advisable to add an external MOSFET for driving the heated bed (if you like, you can also add one for the heater cartridge as well of course). Even though the MOSFET on the mainboard is sufficient, it's an upgrade worth doing as it not only leads to the fact that the bed will be heated up slightly faster, but it also increases the security of the whole printer.  
+The MOSFET of the mainboard doesn't have a heatsink and it *may* caused by overheating due to an excessive amount of current being drawn, especially when using higher bed temperatures. Due to the low clearance between the fan of the mainboard and the ground the printer stands on, the cooling isn't the best as well. When using an enclosure which then heats up as well, cooling gets even worse.  
 If the board's MOSTFET dies, you most likely have to get a whole new mainboard then. Even though it's possible to solder a new one onto the board (if you're skilled to do that), additional components might have been harmed.  
-To avoid that, it's therefore adviseable to add an external MOSFET which then takes the load - the one on the mainboard only acts as a signal for the external one to switch.  
+To avoid that, it's therefore advisable to add an external MOSFET which then takes the load - the one on the mainboard only acts as a signal for the external one to switch.  
 
 The 24V DC of the PSU will be connected to the belonging connector of the external MOSFET. The 24V DC line from the heated bed screw terminals will be connected with the belonging connector of the external MOSFET and the 24V DC wires of the heated bed will then be connected to the outlet of the external MOSFET. When the mainboard switches the onboard MOSFET, it will then trigger the external one to switch and lead the current to the heated bed.  
 There are a few external MOSFETs on the market, most of them only have a "signal" connector. When using a mainboard with a dedicated 'signal' connector for this, it's then connected to that one. When using a mainboard that doesn't have this 'signal' connector like the one being used at these printers, then it's said to connect the 24V from the bed's connector of the mainboard to that.  
@@ -189,7 +189,7 @@ However, when you want to use e.g. 12V fans which speeds are usually controlled
 ## MOD: Add Additional Fuses To The 24V DC Wiring 
 
 It is highly recommended to add a fuse or a fusebox to each of the 24V lines. Pay attention to choose the correct 'size' of the fuse for the belonging part (ampere rating).  
-Doing so can save you from burning down your house if components fail or if the wires somehow overheat and start to burn due to broken strands (which causes a higher resistance) or a shortcut.  
+Doing so can save you from burning down your house if components fail or if the wires somehow overheat and start to burn due to broken strands (which causes a higher resistance) or a short circuit.  
 
 (..need to add pic..)