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bassamanator/everything-sovol-sv06

Everything Sovol SV06

A repository containing specifications of the Sovol SV06 3D printer parts, as well as links to aftermarket replacement parts.

You can assume that all information herein is accurate unless stated otherwise.

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Outline

  1. Hotend
  2. Motherboard
  3. Lead Screws and Rods
  4. PSU Related
  5. Stepper Motors

Hotend

PCB

Revision: SV06ZJB_V1.4

Hotend PCB

Label Connection PCB Connection Other Connection Other info
P3 Coldend fan Molex PicoBlade 2-Pin
P2 Extruder motor Molex PicoBlade 4-Pin JST PH 2.0 6-Pin Cable length 12cm
P4 Heater cartridge JST PH 2.0 2-Pin
P8 Thermistor Molex PicoBlade 2-Pin
P6 Probe Molex PicoBlade 5-Pin
P5 Part cooling fan Molex PicoBlade 2-Pin
P7 Filament sensor Molex PicoBlade 3-Pin

* Note, Molex PicoBlade are often mischaracterized as JST 1.25mm (the name under which they are usually sold online).

Heatblock

Heatblock image

Model Material
Creality CR10 Aluminum

Notes:

  • The heatblock is mounted onto the extruder assembly using 2 x M2.5 x 10mm SHCS.
  • Newer heatblocks appear to have a 3mm thermistor hole.

Heatblock spec

Aftermarket Options

Any of these heatblocks will do just fine, however, they may require mounting bolts of different sizes.

Heater Cartridge

The SV06 uses a ceramic heater cartridge.

Voltage Watts Dimensions Connection Cable Length
24V 50W 6x20mm JST PH 2.0 2-Pin ~40mm

The heater cartridge is glued into the heatblock, a heatblock that heats to 300C. Although possible, it is inadvisable, and potentially dangerous to attempt removal.

Aftermarket Options

Unfortunately, a direct, non-DIY replacement seems unlikely. It appears that no one sells heater cartridges with JST PH 2.0 2-Pin connectors.

You would have to buy a heater cartridge such as this, and crimp the appropriate connector on.

⚠️ This is not an ordinary crimp job. The hotend assembly consumes a lot of power and is dangerously hot. Take every precaution.

Thermistor

Material Dimensions Connection Cable Length
Glass-bead 2mm Molex PicoBlade 2-Pin ~40mm

The thermistor is held in place with the help of a screw, and a generous amount of thermal adhesive. With the help of a heat-gun, and with great care, it can be removed.

Aftermarket Options

  • 3mm Tube Thermistor
    • Please note that this thermistor will not fit in the stock heatblock. You need a heatblock that has a 3mm thermistor hole.
  • 3mm Tube Thermistor 4 units
    • Untested though it looks exactly the same as the option above.
    • Cheaper than then first option.
    • Please note that this thermistor will not fit in the stock heatblock. You need a heatblock that has a 3mm thermistor hole.

Heatbreak

Heatbreak original

Cooper Portion Overall Length Outer Dia. Inner Dia.
15mm 22mm 7mm 2mm

Aftermarket Options

I purchased and tested this heatbreak.

  • It works as well as the stock piece.
  • ⚠️ It is 1mm shorter than the stock piece, so you will need a washer or spacer of some kind to 'increase' it's length. If you don't add a spacer, your part cooling duct will be exactly inline with the nozzle tip, meaning that the part cooling duct will drag across every new layer. The spacer must not be more than 7mm in diameter.

The part sold in the link could change, so make sure it has the following specs:

Aftermarket heatbreak

Nozzle

Type Thread
MK8 M6

Any MK8 nozzle will do. You can even use a V6 style nozzle.

Aftermarket Options

Any MK8 nozzle will be fine. I like these because they're chunky.

SV06 Plus

A Creality K1 nozzle seems like a suitable replacement (needs verification), however, it is 0.5mm shorter than the stock variant. You have to make use of a washer/spacer to correct for this, see Heatbreak, Aftermarket section.

Filament Sensor

I tested two random filament runout sensors that I had on hand. Both work just fine. It seems to me that any sensor with VCC, Ground, and Signal pins should work.

In order to get the filament sensor working, just make sure that the VCC, Ground, and Signal line up with the pins on the hotend PCB, port P7.

Alternate connection You can connect the sensor directly to the motherboard's `Pre-set port`. By default, this port has the `DET` cable connected to it.

In order to 'mount' the sensor while it's not in use, simply glue a small magnet onto the sensor. You can then stick the sensor onto the extruder motor. You might also want to tether the sensor to the extruder cable with a piece of string.

Klipper configuration

[filament_switch_sensor filament_sensor]
switch_pin: !PA4 # "Pulled-high"
pause_on_runout: True
insert_gcode:
    M117 Insert Detected
runout_gcode:
    M117 Runout Detected

The complete Klipper code to make this work is part of my OSS Klipper Configuration.

Filament sensor

Filament sensor

Filament sensor

Aftermarket Options

These can be found for very cheap (roughly $1.5) on Aliexpress and quite a bit more on Amazon (though still very affordable). This is the one I bought. Here's another seemingly viable option.

Cable How-To

You need to make your own cable. I recommend getting these JST 1.25 cables, and this XH2.54 kit. You will also need a crimping tool such as the Engineer PA-09.

Probe

probe

probe

Part Voltage Type Measuring Distance
LJ12A3-4-Z-AX 5V NPN (normally closed) ~4mm

Aftermarket Options

This probe: LJ12A3-4-Z-AX looks like a good candidate because the part number is the same, however, the voltage starts off at 6V. Completely Untested.

I bought this probe: LJ12A3-4-Z-BY. It's dimensionally correct, however, completely untested!

Extruder

The parts from a DIY Orbiter V1.5 kit are suitable replacements for this extruder. I'll do a more thorough write-up eventually, but in the meantime, the only parts that differ in the Orbiter are:

  • the 3 pronged stem is longer in the Orbiter though that should not be an issue.
  • the flanged bearing has a larger OD in the Orbiter.
  • I did not compare the filament gears.

After over 600 hours of print time, I saw hardly any wear on the gears in the extruder.

Aftermarket Options

  • This is the Orbiter kit that I bought and took measurements from, but any other V1.5 kit should do fine.
  • Mellow has a great option as well.

Motherboard

Motherboard

Aftermarket Options

I haven't seen this particular board around, though it should be easy enough to purchase from Sovol3d directly. Having said that, the SKR-Mini-E3-V2.0/V3.0 are viable replacements that fit perfectly in the stock motherboard enclosure, and likely cheaper than the original board. I would recommend the V3.0 over the V2.0 because I have a hardware guide and a Klipper configuration ready to go on my OSS repository, find link below.

Lead Screws and Rods

Lead Screws

Lead screw

Axis Qty Length Dia. Lead Pitch Starts Sovol Part #
Z 2 376mm 8mm 4mm 2mm 2 JXHSV06-02003-a

POM Nuts

Material Dia. Lead Pitch
Polyoxymethylene (type of plastic) 8mm 4mm 2mm

Aftermarket Options

I have been unable to find direct replacements. I am using these, however, you will likely have to drill out the attachment holes with a 3mm drill bit (very easy and quick modification). Please note that I'm not using them as anti-backlash nuts, so that portion of these parts will likely go unused.

Lead Rods

Lead rod

Axis Qty Length Dia. Sovol Part #
X 2 355mm 8mm JXHSV06-03001-a
Y 2 340mm 8mm JXHSV06-01012-a
Z 2 400mm 8mm JXHSV06-02004-a

Linear Bearings

Motherboard

Type Part Quantity
Linear bearing LM8UU 10

Z Axis Couplers

Z coupler rigid 5mm to 8mm

Type Qty Dia. Length Motor Shaft Dia. Lead Screw Dia.
Rigid 2 20mm 25mm 5mm 8mm

Aftermarket Options

Option 1

Belts

belt 6mm

Brand Part Length Width
GATES PowerGrip GT2 LL-2GT ~1.5m 6mm

Aftermarket Options

Two meters will handle both the Y and X axis.

  • GATES
  • POWGE
    • I use these myself, they're top quality.

Timing Belt Toothed Pulleys

Coming soon.

Timing Belt Smooth Idlers

Smooth Idlers

PSU Related

Brand Model Wattage Voltage
Cheng Liang P360W24V 360W 24V

PSU Connections

PSU Switch

Other PSU Cable

Part
XT60H-M/F

PSU cable

Internal Fan Cable Connector

PSU fan connector

Printer Part Pitch
SV06 JST-XA 2.54mm
SV06 Plus JST-XH 2.54mm

Stepper Motors

Stepper motor

Location Motor Height Peak current Step angle
Extruder Nema 17 22 0.8A (needs verification) 1.8°
X-Gantry Nema 17 34 1.3A 1.8°
Y-Axis Nema 17 34 1.3A 1.8°
2 x Z-Axis Nema 17 34 1.3A 1.8°

Y-Axis

  • In case you need to replace it, you can probably fit a stepper motor with a height of 42mm.
  • A stepper motor with a height of 40mm will certainly fit.

Aftermarket Options

Notes:

  • Adjusting the connectors will likely be required for any replacement stepper.
  • If using Klipper, it will be very easy to adapt the printer.cfg for these steppers.
  • If using Marlin, you will either have to compile your own firmware, or it might be possible to adjust the current via the menu.
  • The links for aftermarket options have good specifications, however, they are completely untested.

Options

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